Bells on the hoods: Duran Lantink sharpens Gaultier's cone silhouette
In the mirrored basement of the Palais de Tokyo, Duran Lantink showed Jean Paul Gaultier cones jutting from the shoulders, little bells and Dutch checks.
Photo: DiscoA340 / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0 (cropped and resized)
Video: YouTube · Jean Paul Gaultier · youtube.com
Jean Paul Gaultier presented its Spring/Summer 2027 collection in Paris on the evening of 4 October. Creative director Duran Lantink had the basement of the Palais de Tokyo painted white and lined with mirrored panels that vibrated with the music and reflected the audience. The house has published the show on its YouTube channel.
Gaultier's best-known motif, the cone bust, turns up in an unexpected place in Lantink's hands: as pointed shapes projecting from the shoulders. They were joined by trench coats, oversized suits with rounded shoulders, giant ruffle collars reworked into tops and fringed dresses. According to DSCENE, the Dutch designer drew on checks, tartans and florals from his homeland's folklore, while sandals play with the negative space of a flip-flop or tabi shoe.
The most striking detail was the bells on hoods and dresses, inspired by a 1989 Gaultier glove covered in tassels and bells. "When we started adding bells on things, it made an amazing sound," Lantink told W magazine backstage. That led to the idea of a woman who is loud and present.