Zuhair Murad in holiday mode: macramé, terracotta and fringe for the Mediterranean

Zuhair Murad has titled his spring/summer 2027 ready-to-wear collection "When the Sun Whispers". It is set on the Mediterranean coast: Vogue Runway describes colours recalling ancient ceramics and Murano glass, streamlined shapes and featherlight fabrics, with nods to Impressionism and la dolce vita. The house is best known for elaborate wedding gowns and red-carpet dresses, which makes the move towards more relaxed fashion all the more noticeable.

Handwork shapes the collection: crochet, braiding, weaving and passementerie. A white cotton poplin dress is worked in macramé, and an asymmetric tunic dress in terracotta crepe has a scarf detail with wide fringe. Brooches recall sea anemones, illusion-tulle dresses are embroidered with impressions of ripples and shells, and fruit such as papaya, strawberries and cherries appears as embroidery or costume jewellery.

Eveningwear stays relaxed too, with modernised caftans and gowns that concentrate the detail at the back, such as a pink Mikado silk dress with an oversized bow. New to the line-up is a simple leather clutch. FashionTV has published a video of the collection on its YouTube channel.