Yohji Yamamoto pulls fashion apart: threads, cords and red fringe

Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto showed his Spring/Summer 2027 women's collection in Paris on 2 October. According to the house's announcement, the venue was the Salon de l'Hôtel de Ville, the reception hall of Paris City Hall; the show started at 7 pm and was streamed live.

The avant-garde magazine Iconia counts 43 looks. The show opened with sculptural silhouettes in black and charcoal, including long dresses with generous volume and spiralling panels. Later, Yamamoto exposed the construction: strips of fabric extend from dresses and coats, woven surfaces open into loose strands, and cords cross black-and-white compositions. Soft knits trace the body before running into long trains.

Besides black, the designer used white, grey and red, according to Iconia; red grew stronger towards the end, and the final look featured abundant red fringe over black. Iconia sums up the principle: “There is a particular kind of disorder that only becomes possible through extreme control.” The video shows the show on the label's official channel.