Margiela: Glenn Martens hardens flowers with resin and hammers body pieces from teapots

Maison Margiela showed its Spring/Summer 2027 collection at the Paris concert hall Élysée Montmartre; according to the Japanese fashion portal Fashionsnap, it is creative director Glenn Martens' third season. The theme “Hard and Soft” refers to the classic division of labour in Paris couture ateliers between tailoring (“tailleur”) and soft dressmaking (“flou”). The walls were covered in flowers created by Belgian flower artist Mark Colle, who according to Hypebae also made the flower walls for Raf Simons' first Dior couture show in 2012. This time the blooms looked wilted.

Trench coats get a stiff panel at the waist that works like a corset; on jackets and waistcoats the buttons are folded inwards so the fold line stays visible. According to Fashionsnap, retro florals were hardened with resin or foil, and one skirt was deliberately cracked after coating. For the finale, Martens showed body pieces hammered from flea-market teapots, plates and spoons.

For footwear, Margiela relies on a “heel-less” concept, Hypebae reports: knee-high boots and open pumps hide a high heel inside, with only a small kitten heel visible from outside. The Tabi family grows with ruffled clogs. The video shows the show on the house's official channel.