Sacai versus Sacai: Chitose Abe takes her own signature apart
Faux fur under organza, sequins as trompe l'oeil, fractured leather: Sacai showed a collection about change in Paris on 5 October.
Graphic: TERRA WORLD NEWS (own graphic based on the sources listed)
Japanese label Sacai showed its Spring/Summer 2027 womenswear collection in Paris at 10am on Monday, 5 October – after a season away from the women's runway, according to Vanity Teen. Designer Chitose Abe titled the collection "A Moment of Becoming", a phrase that also appeared as a slogan on T-shirts.
According to the South China Morning Post, Abe spliced fabrics and leather with hardware such as zips. Industry outlet The Impression describes photo-real printed fur in wolf-like textures on skirts and jackets, puffed-up jackets covered in organza, and enlarged gold sequins as a trompe l'oeil print on black. Leather was fractured and pieced back together, while military references met airy, voluminous silhouettes.
A base palette of black, khaki, grey and white was interrupted, Vanity Teen notes, by red, metallic surfaces, fringe, crystals, satin and transparency. Seams, linings and layers were left visible, turning construction itself into decoration. According to The Impression, Abe traced a short history of dress – from animal skins to the leg-of-mutton sleeves of the early 19th century to the modern uniform. The idea behind it, according to Vanity Teen: a person is never just one thing.